I Ain’t Afraid of No …. Breakdown (Sung to the theme song of Ghostbusters) 😊

October 19, 2021

Dear Diary

               My mother, son (Byram) and I left Karachi by road on October 9, 2021 for Multan and Islamabad.

Saturday, Oct 9-                              8.30am-              Leave for Multan (126546 Km on Odomoter)                                              3pm-                    Arrive Ranipur Sugar Mills                                              8.50pm-               Arrive Multan Toll Plaza                                              9.10pm-               Arrived Avari Boutique, Multan (127420 Km)

One of the best Motorways IN THE WORLD I have ever traveled on, so far, is the latest Sukkur-Multan one.  It was an absolute pleasure to cruise on that.  It felt like the car was on MAGLEVs.

(M5- Sukkur to Multan)

But the bugs that hit the car traveling in Punjab’s dusk 😱😱😱😱

               A simple dinner and ahhhhh…. A refreshing sleep after 12 hours of driving!

Sunday, Oct 10-                1215pm-               Leave for Islamabad (127424 Km)                                              6.20pm-               Arrive Islamabad Toll Plaza                                              7pm-                    Arrived Avari Xpress Islamabad (127424 Km)

               There’s a really nice shop in Multan, very close to our Hotel, called Pak Handicrafts, just 2 km away.  After buying 2 cartons of Multani pottery we made our way onwards to Islamabad.

After passing the Salt Range, we experienced, what I believe, a hail storm.  Slow going but an interesting drive in the rain. 

However, the consequences of the word “Interesting” can be construed in many ways ☹ ….

Monday, Oct 11-              Car started but no readings or lights on instrument panel

Presumably, while parked overnight, in the rain, with the drain of the sun roof blocked, the water must have found its way down the two side frames of the car into the fuse box(es).

               On further testing, mechanicals were all fine; electrical connections were all fine; but the instrument panel didn’t work nor did the airconditioning, but car was still drivable.

Tuesday, October 12-     12.30pm-               Leave for Lahore with parents (127980 Km)                                              ??? pm-                Arrive Avari Lahore Hotel (128360 Km)

               So, with no airconditioning and a rough indication with cruise control that we were under the 120 KPH limit, we arrived sometime late on Tuesday night- hot, sweaty, dusty for most of the trip, but slightly cooled off by the time dusk hit us.  From hereon, all mileage calculations were done as per Google maps as the odometer reading was also off.

Wednesday, October 13-               1015am               Leave for Multan (128367 Km)                                                             3pm                              Arrive Avari Xpress Hotel, Multan (128,380 Km)

               Believe me, it’s not too much fun driving with open windows in Punjab’s heat … but again, it is an “experience” 😊.

               On the 14th, by 1pm, we realized we had completed our work and there was no real reason to stay back another day.  Byram & I decided that if we can reach Sukkur by 7pm, we can make Karachi same night by 11pm (add an hour’s margin, so say 12 midnight). 

Now, don’t forget, we have no a/c (how spoilt we are!) and no operating control panel, so we don’t know our speed nor how much diesel we would use.  So one more visit to Pak Handicrafts, then topping up the diesel and off we left.

Thursday, October 14-                  3.30pm                Leave for Sukkur (128720 Km)                                                             6.45pm                Arrive Rohri-Sukkur Toll Plaza (129,125 Km)

               Leaving Sukkur had quite a bit of traffic and I wasn’t sure if we could make Karachi by midnight.  We would make a call at Ranipur, whether to stay over at a friend’s or push on … PUSH ON we did!

               (By the way, from this point onwards, as far as our parents were concerned, we were overnighting in Ranipur 😱)

               9.45pm found us at a roadside restaurant in Moro for a quick dinner … and the car worse for wear.  With all the lights dimming, we didn’t know what to expect next so just kept the car running through the one hour dinner stop, rightly apprehensive it wouldn’t start again.  (129,230 Km)

               At 1045pm, as we left the diner, the car decided it was not going anywhere in a hurry and groaned & moaned it’s way down N5 – at that point we decided it may be better to turn around and travel back to Ranipur and sleep the night and figure out the car next morning.  5 minutes later, the car packed up on the side of the road ☹!!!  It just stalled … no starter … no click … no clack! (129,285 Km)

               It turned out, with the help of really good Samaritans, we found out both the batteries were shot (and these are new, just replaced in June 2021).  In our conveniently stranded location, mechanics and battery-wallas were all over the place; we managed to quick charge both batteries; and at 2am decided it’s better to continue to push through for Karachi instead of head back 2 hours to Ranipur.

The going was good for exactly one hour, when the same symptoms “enlightened” us and we came to another permanent stop at a TOTAL pump just before Naya Saeedabad toll plaza. (129,278 Km)

               Between 3am and 3.30, we contacted the Motorway Police; reported our problem, requesting towing/trucking services; spoke to one of their mobiles which passed by; and finally were informed there was nothing that could be done till 7am.

               So, in a first of an EXPERIENCE, Byram lay down across the back seat, I lay across the two front seats, two pillows behind our respective heads and went off in a deep deep 💤💤💤.

               At 6.30am, I again contact the H’way Police who sent another mobile.  The police gave me the number of a tow truck company in Hyderabad who I contacted, who sent Abdullah with his recovery truck some hours later; and with the car on the truck, we finally set off at noon on OCTOBER 15, 2021 for Karachi at 12.20 noon … but this time, sitting in our car, which was on top of the recovery truck.

               Five minutes later, the truck had a FLAT!!!!

We hit Hyderabad’s 37⁰ heat (Felt like  🔥) at 1.50pm; Abdullah stopped for us to enjoy a chilled, refreshing Gunnay ka Juice (Sugarcane Juice) and we crossed the River Indus 15 minutes later on our way for the final leg; arriving Toyota Motors at 6pm, dropping off the car and arriving home at 7pm!  (129,278 Km)

               My wife and I have driven Karachi to Lahore in 2016; we drove Karachi to London in 2017; and now in 2021, Byram & I to Islamabad and back; but what is the takeaway from this story – 

                 Possibly consider doing our overlanding/next road trip like this … sitting in the comfort of your own car, ON TOP OF a flatbed, being driven around the world… 😆😁.  

(By the way, the pin location for the sugarcane juice in Hyderabad, if anyone’s interested, is 25°23’50.3″N 68°19’48.5″E – https://goo.gl/maps/7Pw8w4gChE1pkspPA)

(‘Another’ by the way- for anyone interested, the recovery company is Shamim Recovery Service (Pak Movers)- 0313 5036666, 0301 5036666, 0333 5036666, 0303 5036666)

There’s A Moral to Every Story 😊

September 28, 2021

There’s something very liberating about a motorbike.  It has given me access to areas of Karachi which I would not have thought of going ever, let alone in a car.

This Sunday, out of the blue, the crocodiles (or is it alligator?) of Mangopir (https://goo.gl/maps/ZTceiLzjUpBCyJieA) came to mind, so off I set on my little US70 at 1145am.  Instead of a 40 minute (as per Google Maps) ride, it took me over an hour to get there … all along getting dehydrated in the sun’s heat (even though I kept sipping my backpack water cooler).  The going was all fine & dandy till I came to the Naya Nazimabad project- and there the roads were hell.  Potholes filled with either sewage water or the previous days’ rainwater; clay-like mud; and no wind to cool the face in the helmet!

The end result was my clothes & shoes were a complete mess & my bike had changed colour to ‘brown’!

It was a pleasure to see the crocodiles in their enclosure.  We can crib all we want that animal protectionism doesn’t exist in Pakistan; and this & that; but at this Sanctuary, the crocs are fed, taken care of AND revered. 

As an aside- Karachi has so many tourist attractions … if only we can fix the infrastructure to make them easily accessible ☹ to us.

Returning, I decided to do so from the Hub Dam road & Northern Bypass … BIIIIIG mistake!  The sun was just too hot and there was no wind.  The water I was drinking most probably wasn’t replenishing the dehydration enough.

The Mangopir Road (leading northwards to the Hub Dam Road) was never ending.  Eventually, I saw a “PEPSI” sign at a roadside Dhaba and just had to stop.  I was panting away from the heat and dehydration.  AFTER a 45 minutes rest, two 7-Ups, a full litre of cold water and sucking on a lemon, I was refreshed enough to set on again.  I truly bless the dhaba people for looking after me and letting me rest under the fan.

At 3.15pm I finally reached home into the comforts of an a/c!

What’s the moral here-

DON’T travel to Mangopir

               … IN Summer’s Heat

                              … ON a Motorbike

                                             … ON broken roads

                                                            … WITHOUT protection from Sun or Dehydration!

Would I do it again … DEFINITELY! 😊

(p.s.- see the video posted on Twitter)

‘Tis the Season for Sind Tourism

(Well, not the “climatic season”!)

June 30, 2021

So once again, our AFK photography class was off to explore Sind.  Never in my life have I ventured as much into Sind as I have with this group…and it’s a pleasure to finally see the sights (and sounds) of the province I live in.

FIRST STOP … Makli Necropolis … is about 2½ hours away from Karachi on N-5 (National H’way).

               We first stopped for breakfast at Café Imran, apparently a well-known joint in Gharo.  Can’t disagree with that assessment as it was jam packed when we arrived at 8.30am. What we lost in a little waiting time we made up with a hearty and enjoyable breakfast — Sweet Lassi, Sweet Chai, Paratha, Channa & Omelette … DEFINITELY NOT for the diabetic, cardiac case or Cholestrol affectee 😊 😊 😊.

Makli is beautiful … and in summers, dreadfully, frightfully HOT.  If you go, remember to take bottles of water and keep drinking; and as my closest friend, and doctor, Shahrukh Hansotia says, a packet of ORS to replenish the evaporated salts.  Makli is apparently the largest Muslim burial ground in the world.

Visiting Makli’s tombs reminded me of similar places in Italy, Iran and other such preserved sites.  An UNESCO Heritage site, the government and UNESCO seem to be doing a decent job but more needs to be done, especially with regards to cleanliness. 

SECOND STOP … From here we went onward to visit the Tomb of Sultan Jam Nizamuddin and the Shrine of Jam & Nuri Tamachi (among other structures) … Beautiful but need preserving.  An interesting 2016 (but old) DAWN article gives a good summary of the problems being faced there- https://www.dawn.com/news/1257429 .

By then we were hot and tired … so we decided to break for lunch – we all needed cold cold drinks.  My friend was dehydrated and got himself a litre of water with ORS. 

So, for our THIRD STOP, we went to a little “BOUTIQUE” … FINE DINING so to speak … of a restaurant in Thatta city – a haven for “covid” and any other germs & diseases you can think of 😊 😊 😊.  Barring the “ambiance”, the vegetables and the freshly baked naan was … to die for (absolutely delicious)!  TIP I LEARNT THERE- don’t order anything other than vegetables and daal – you won’t exactly know what [substitute for] “meat” or “chicken” has been put 😱.

FOURTH STOP … Freshly energized with food, we went to see the famous Shahjahan Mosque in Thatta – absolutely beautiful.  Needing to kill 1 hour, most of us actually snoozed on the cool flooring for a while. 

The Shahjahan Mosque is beautiful.  More than the courtyard, it’s the two side corridors and the ceiling of the main prayer hall (as you enter) which is fabulous.  Down the right corridor, suddenly there is a very unusual, crooked doorway.  There must be a reason for this but we could not find out the reason.

We ENDED THE DAY by seeing the Chawkandi Tombs on the return.  These were even better preserved than some of the Makli ones, inspite of being older than Makli. 

Two interesting nuggets we learnt at Chawkandi-

  1. Those graves with a turban implied a male was buried there; and
  2. There is one grave (apparently the only grave in the Muslim world) with a horse symbol on it and it’s located at Chawkandi.

I made three new friends, Muneeb, Gulzeb and Baboo 70 (the latter I think believes he’s a villain from some Pakistan or Indian action movie 😊).  I told them I’ll somehow try to get their photos over to them at Chawkandi one way or the other.

With the permission of the author/videographer (and member of our Makli group), Abdul Qayoom (Pakistan Scape), I am posting his two YouTube links on our photography tour –               

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wsG-n_hr6k & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsL1Y3pItZI  

The N-5 is prettier that taking the Super H’way.  There’s so much to see of Sindh, the barrenness, the greenery and the main canal supplying water to Karachi, which runs parallel to N-5.

‘Tis the season for Sindh … and I mean season for “Sind exploration” this year! 

So much to see … and plenty of time to do it in 😊 … next stop, hopefully, MITHI !

ANOTHER Hidden GEM … This Time SINDH!

April 27, 2021

So off we went, the five of us, on Friday to Ranikot & Mohenjo-Daro.  3½ hours from Karachi, life completely changed once we got onto the N55 H’way.

For me, it was a photo & astro-photography trip; for my friends, already pros, had photography work with the Sindh Culture department.  Naturally, we couldn’t have chosen a “better” time to go … 40⁰+C in the day (but it dropped to 18⁰ at night and early morning).

We arrived Ranikot Fort around 5.30pm and promptly started our photography sessions of Merikot Fort. Within Ranikot Fort, are additional defensive walls and another Fort- Merikot Fort. This was apparently the palace of the royal family.

History of Ranikot is available at https://antiquities.sindhculture.gov.pk/index.php/antiquities-sites/fort/rani-kot-fort-jamshoro & https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ranikot_Fort and I’m not going into the history at this point; suffice to say, it was a very different experience from what I envisaged.  The Fort itself is built like the Great Wall of China- connected over mountain tops, spanning around 30 km, with guard towers, fortified walls (see below) and even another fort on the mountain top.  This is the OUTER and main defense. 

After a delicious meal prepared by the restaurant owner, Abdul Qader Gabol, we started light photography.  We couldn’t do any astrophotography as it was very dusty and the the Milky Way wasn’t visible the whole night. 

Light photography was a new experience for me!

I slept at 1.30am late night and got woken at 5.45am to see the sunrise.  What a temperature difference- it was so cool and pleasant on waking up.

Next day, after a simple yet delicious breakfast, we set off to see one of the four entry gates of Ranikot.  Absolutely amazing.

I climbed up 300 steps (apprx. 300 feet) and yet there were about another 200 steps to go, at which time I decided to call it quits and walk down again.  Looking at the Wall from where I stood, reminded me of Mulan (movie)- it felt so real.

Not only will I return, with my family, but we’ll walk to the top of the entry wall!  Let it not be said the Fort conquered our will & stamina 😊!

From there we made our way another 3½ hours to Mohenjo-Daro on the N55.

Walking around, albeit in the heat, was still an experience – this site reminded me of our visit to Pompei in the ‘1970s!

After another delicious dinner, we packed off to bed at 9pm! … so as to awake at 3am for the astrophotography.

This was an absolutely new experience for me.  Using the controls of the camera to capture the stars and the Milky Way and no flash or astronomy equipment.

The purpose of writing this is to show just one of many tourist sites Pakistan has to offer, in this case in the province of Sind.  Over these 3 days, I came to identify multi-tourist activities for a variety of interests/enthusiasts –

  • Overlanding
  • Off roading
  • Adventure
  • Historical/cultural interests
  • Hiking/mountain climbing
  • Photography & Astrophotography
  • Wildlife photography (there are wolves here!)
  • Flora & fauna
  • …or just plain bumming (chillin’) away!

What’s the problem you ask?  The problem is these “gems”, like so so many others, is not promoted to – forget foreigners – our domestic tourists.  It’s taken 53 years for me to get here- how many others are missing this experience!?

One amateur/novice photographer (me) in a lot of four other professionals … a great learning experience!

Next Stop – MITHI !

A future “Malir River-Basin Dam”?

(Photo credit- https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Malir-River-Basin-MRB_fig1_325475799)

August 12, 2019

Last week I had written about recycling & harvesting rain water (https://dinshawavari.com/2019/08/08/and-the-rains-are-upon-us/).  Then we faced rains in Karachi which I have not seen in decades.  The “natural” effect of this was the massive misinformation & incorrect (some genuinely mistaken) social media warnings & alerts on the effects of the rains in Karachi. 

One post in particular, on the flooding of Malir River, got me thinking.  At the outset, let me clarify that these are my personal views and I hope it doesn’t lead to controversy …

               Water flowing down Sindh province makes its way into Malir River, which generally lays dry through the year.  It’s only when we have sudden rains or this current set of rains when it fills up, and in the latter case, overflowed too.

               The major sources of Karachi’s water are the Hub dam, Keenjhar lake & Haleji lake.

Why don’t we “DAM” up the Malir River Basin within Karachi’s limits?  Why let the precious rain water go to waste, into the Arabian Sea?  If Karachi is seeing its own effects of climate change and our soothsayers predict more of this to come, let’s channelize that water into a massive & natural reservoir down Malir River.  A dam in the middle of the City will also become its own, inbuilt tourist attraction (just like Nasser Dam is in Egypt).  It’s just a matter of finessing this future dam as the main structural setup is already in place.

There will NOT be any negative environmental effects – in fact it will save water; be a positive social change for the people of Karachi through tourism; it will control the environmental pollutants currently flowing into the Malir River. There will be other benefits!

Do you water experts out there agree to this- or a variation of this idea?

(Photo credit- Samaa TV)